How it all started
I had never thought I would end up living in rural Japan, but now I am; I wouldn’t change it for the world. Here’s a little outline of how I found myself here.
Having always loved snowboarding, I flew to France after graduating. Once there, I found work as a chalet host and quickly fell in love with mountain life. I worked with a young couple who told me their story of meeting in Japan. I was amazed by their tales of the bottomless powder, the incredible food and culture, and the friendly people. It all sounded too good to be true, but the more I researched the country, the more I felt it was the right place for me to go on my next adventure.
When I returned to England, I secured a job in Niseko, Hokkaido. I then sorted out my working holiday visa for Japan. At the start of winter, I set off and, before I knew it, found myself in the magical winter wonderland, Niseko.
It was there that I first met Lisa, and after the season, we travelled with some friends around the country. This allowed me to see so much more that wouldn’t have been possible without a deeper understanding of the language and culture.
These adventures opened my eyes to the endless possibilities that could be achieved in the country. After all, it had four dramatically distinct seasons, the snowiest mountains in the world up north and tropical islands to the south, a rich history and culture, unique wildlife, huge cities, sprawling mountains and forests, state-of-the-art transportation, delicious local delicacies, and so much more. It felt like the land of everything and anything (and still does).
When my visa expired, we left and spent some time exploring other countries. All the while, I felt like I had barely scratched the surface of all there was to experience in Japan and wanted to return to delve deeper.
Living in Tokyo
I have a strong affinity for the city but also a disdain. On the one hand, it is the largest metropolitan city on earth. Therefore, it has countless bars, restaurants, shops, entertainment venues, sports facilities, temples, shrines, and all manners of things you could find in a global city.
We returned a couple of years later and, this time, moved to Tokyo. I had managed to secure sponsorship for a working visa through an English teaching role at an eikaiwa (English conversation school). The work was enjoyable, and I worked full-time for two years at the school, but living in Tokyo was vastly different from what I had ever experienced.
However, with over 37 million people living in the city, it is almost impossible to find space for yourself. Most people use the convenient railway system to travel around the city. This means if you wish to go anywhere, you have to sit or stand in the (usually packed) carriages. But the atmosphere is very different from that of other large cities: the carriages are silent. Nobody speaks or makes eye contact. They stare at their phones and push to get on and off at their desired stations.
As with all big cities, when people are around that many other people constantly, they can grow tired and impatient with others. That point is exacerbated in Tokyo, as it’s like other cities, only on steroids with blindingly bright lights and irritating jingles playing over speakers everywhere – the eerie thing is the only sound not heard is that of voices, just a march of footsteps and the clicking of smartphone screens. For one of the busiest cities on earth, it can be one of the loneliest.
After some time living in Tokyo, I noticed that my behaviour was changing. From always being friendly, smiley and outgoing, I started to avoid making eye contact with people. I felt anxious and uncomfortable being in crowded places all the time.
The pandemic worsened this, with many establishments closing earlier and the fear of the virus causing people to keep others at even more of a distance. Eventually, we decided enough was enough and made the choice to leave.
Moving to Niigata
We moved to Niigata, where Lisa is from. Immediately, we felt the difference of having family and friends close by. We were happier having nature on our doorstep and picturesque mountains an hour’s drive away. The atmosphere was much more pleasant than in Tokyo. People were more interested in one another and more likely to engage without needing to be drunk.
However, it was still some distance from the mountains, and I wanted to be even closer.
I found an opportunity to work as an English teacher in a ski resort area during the summer. This helped me to meet other expats, and I learned a little about their lives in the countryside. They showed me their houses and told me how little they had paid for them. Before then, buying a home with land in Japan had felt like a pipedream. But hearing their stories allowed me to view it as a very feasible achievement. With the prices as low as they were (and still are), I was determined to find a place of our own in the countryside and live the life we both wanted.
We began searching through akiya banks and real estate companies with a clear idea of the area and type of property we wanted. It took us about a month of searching these websites every day to find the one for us.
Started rural life in Japan
Since moving to the countryside, our lives have changed dramatically. It has been 15 months since we moved in, and in that time, we have both learned so many new skills relating to DIY and renovations. We have spent far more time outside than we did previously and are happier for it. Our lives are healthier as we exercise, eat healthily, have more fulfilling social lives, and drink less.
This life may not be for everyone as it has certainly posed many challenges, like monkeys stealing our vegetables; badgers, bats, snakes, mice, and spiders making their residence at our house; woodpeckers attacking the side of the house; the brutally cold mornings; the creepy crawlies; and of course the bears roaming nearby.
But, all of those challenges have been outweighed by the peacefulness that comes with the sound of the birds and wind through the leaves at night, the bonfires in the garden, the space to entertain our friends for dinner parties, the neighbours who drop around with fruit and vegetables for us, the conversations with dog walkers, the option to go hiking out of the door or snowboard within minutes in the winter, stunning onsens everywhere, and the fresh air and delicious water.
We still have such a long way to go until we achieve everything that we want to, but we have taken some of the most difficult and scary steps on the road there. After each step, we are slightly more equipped to deal with the next obstacle and plan our approach.
Overall, it’s been the best decision of our lives, and we love our lives where we are!
We hope that some of the information on this blog can help others achieve their dreams or consider their options.
